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Using a standard wood router bit to profile brass.

Here's a quick clip of profiling the 4 feet that will sit beneath the clock plinth.

Its a standard 2 flute router bit (cove, 12mm radius, carbide tip) cutting 5mm sheet leaded brass with a modest feed rate/DOC and running at max rpm for my little mill (1800). It did a great job, and was a whole lot cheaper than a ball end mill of similar radius.


Interestingly a climb cut gave the better surface finish, which is not what I was expecting.  No signs of chatter or "grabbing" of the brass in either direction, and I am sure I could have pushed the feed/DOC much harder without any issue - it ate the stock like it was butter.


Will definitely be doing this again for complex profiling - Expect another short clip tomorrow.


Cheers,

Chris.

Using a standard wood router bit to profile brass.

Comments

True, free booting is rife on FB. It does get annoying to have to go through the same process so frequently with YT. It would seem a reasonable thing that a channel get white listed after a few times through the cycle - end of rant :)

Clickspring

I suppose that is not a bad thing if you look at it from the original creator's perspective. Facebook has the opposite mentality by not doing too much when someone downloads material off Youtube and reposting it using Facebook.

AM de Jager

Interestingly, YT will still flag material even if it is licensed. My videos get held up regularly by the automated YT system, requiring a dispute to be filed, slowing down a release by days in some cases. It gets cleared of course, because I have the license, but it is a great example of the YouTubes ready/fire/aim attitude.

Clickspring

Thanks Chris - I am busy collecting music for my own (woodworking) channel and I am scared of copyright strikes etc. I've read about a couple of instances where a royalty and copyright free track's license is changed after it was used and then it still results in a strike etc. Will check out audiojungle.

AM de Jager

Great to hear that! I get the music from all over the place - The free YT Audio library is good, Audiojungle.net is another good source and occasionally artists get in touch and offer their music for the exposure. There's a lot of good stuff out there, but it takes a bit of time to find it :)

Clickspring

Awesome Chris - thanks for releasing the teasers. I've watched the entire clock series for a third time last week :) Where did you buy/get your background music?

AM de Jager

Its my absolute pleasure mate, and thank you for your support and encouragement I very much appreciate it :)

Clickspring

Just gonna put this out there: I so appreciate how engaged you are with your audience! I love that you're so willing to take time to respond to posts made by us and that you share as much knowledge and advice that you can in each one. Though I don't know you personally, I feel like I can freely approach you with questions and comments about your work. I will hurt the day that you become so YouTube famous that you'll no longer be able to put so much attention into each of our comments. Keep up the amazing content! Cheers, Cameron

Cameron Gunter

You're exactly correct Charlie - its tool marks from the milling cutter; one from the leading edge as it moves across the workpiece, and the other from the trailing edge, intersecting to make the cross hatched pattern. I used one of my older less sharp cutters to bring the stock to size, so the tool marks are a little more pronounced than usual; I think it might be time to invest in some new cutters :)

Clickspring

The finished parts look great too. I thought on my first viewing that you had knurled the edge of the third from bottom part. I was going to ask how you did that, but closer inspection looks like that is just teeth marks from your cutting device. I don't know if knurling is possible on a straight surface, but it looks pretty good in that picture.

Charlie Robinson

Short videos, long videos... Love it all!

Stephen D Mills

Don't be too disappointed Tom, 2 new vids on the way soon, plus an absolutely killer follow up to the hand vise project is in the works...

Clickspring

Yes I feel exactly the same way Alan - his books and videos are what got me into clocks too. I never had the chance to get to meet him, but I feel like I know him well from his books and videos. Superbly practical, a great teacher and a deep well of knowledge. He has been hugely influential on my approach to home engineering; I use his techniques virtually every time I walk into the shop.

Clickspring

Several YouTubers I follow started to release short "Promo-Videos" I get more and more annoyed with it. Because allays this disappointment is triggered: "Oh, look, Clickspring released a new video, time to relax and watch tools going satisfyingly smooth trough the material and admiring precision at work - oh, it's only 15 seconds long :-("

TOM

Seeing the mention of Bill Smith, I wonder if you had heard the sad news that he died around a month ago. A great guy who got me enthusiastic about clocks and cutting metal and his books and videos so helpful.

Alan Wood

Yup, totally agree. So easy to get complacent, and then *thunk!* there goes a days work... This machine is really weak, so I run it with tight gibs almost all the time. It really can't be trusted with a climb cut on anything other than a light finishing pass. What surprised me with the router bit was the apparent reduction in the machines tendency to grab - I expected the router bit geometry to make things either the same as usual, or slightly worse. Yet what I found was a slight improvement. Cheers mate :)

Clickspring

Hey Michael, terrific to hear about you making the Bill Smith T-Rest, it makes the Sherline so much more useful. I have an SX3 mill (<a href="http://www.mini-lathe.com/X3_mill/Sx3rvw/SX3-4.htm)" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">http://www.mini-lathe.com/X3_mill/Sx3rvw/SX3-4.htm)</a> It's perfectly adequate for what I do, but like most benchtop mills it isn't very rigid, so has to be nursed for some cuts (eg slots). I wouldn't necessarily recommend it, but it will definitely be more convenient than vertical slide milling on the Sherline :) btw if you are interested in other mills in a similar size, consider this: <a href="http://www.grizzly.com/products/Drill-Mill-with-Stand/G0704" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">http://www.grizzly.com/products/Drill-Mill-with-Stand/G0704</a> I don't have any personal experience with it, but my understanding is that it has a full section square column, as compared to the SX3 open backed "U" section which is the source of much of the SX3's weakness. Cheers mate :)

Clickspring

Stay nervous about climb cutting on a machine with appreciable backlash. You're relying on the friction in the ways/gibs to stop the cutter pulling the part into itself. If you're aware of the magnitude & direction of tool pressure vs friction in the machine’s motion components, you’ll be ok… until you aren’t. Did you run the gibs tighter than usual in this example?

ivanjh

Which Mill do you use Chris? I've been weighing my options for a few months. Also, thank you- Largely in part to your videos I've gotten into this and I love it, I've got a Sherline Lathe, which I just about finished making the WR Smith T-rest for., it's perfectly functional, now for just a little cleanup. But trying to do the milling with a vertical slide on the Sherline made me really want a mill!

Michael G

Ha ha! Full video out once I finish the wooden plinth, cheers Steven :)

Clickspring

Got all settled in for a longer video. Disappointed that I only got 15 seconds, but excited now to watch the full video!

Steven Bierlink

Hey Eric, I wanted a wide radius cove cut on the feet, and didn't want to spring for a new ball end mill or make custom cutter! I figured it had to give me a better result than a fly cutter, and I use those all the time on brass. But I figured it was a good idea to be cautious - my little mill is very flimsy, and loose compared to a professional machine. Its very prone to grabbing, so non standard tool geometry can't be taken for granted.

Clickspring

What was it that make you think of using a wood bit for brass?

Eric Vincent

Yes agreed, although I had an expectation that my small mill might present a "grabbing"problem with a climb cut on brass using this tool - very pleased it wasn't the case :)

Clickspring

I was taught that climb cutting is how you produce the best surface finish. So not surprising, actually.

Cameron Gunter

Cheers Matt, will do :)

Clickspring

I am liking these quick clips, but loving the longer videos, Please keep up the good work. Thanks.

Matthew Dormer

Oh it drives me crazy - I can't figure out what they were thinking on that one, it just confuses everybody. I get caught out all the time. I will send 'em another grizzle email :)

Clickspring

Also, christ, the patreon comment input boxes suck. No line breaks? When did they remove that?

Fake Name

It's a small amount harder and definitely much heavier than aluminium. I guess I should have expected to get a good result with a wood bit, but was pleased nevertheless :)

Clickspring

@Jess Neal - Brass is FAR more dense then aluminium, though it's not much *harder*. Brass is 8400 - 8700 kg/m3. Aluminium is ~2700 kg/m3 So brass is roughly 3 times as dense as aluminium, though it'll vary a bit depending on the alloy.

Fake Name

So is brass roughly the same density of aluminum? I know I use wood tooling on aluminum all the time...

Jess Neal


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